![]() ![]() Soaking times vary but don’t soak it too long. Soak the hide in cool water until soft, changing the water often. A 10 gallon plastic garbage can works well. Soak the hideĪfter the hide is cured and all the moisture is out of it (it will kill all the ticks too), you need to find a pretty big, nonmetallic barrel. You can relax now for the next week or so, your work is done for now. Keep it out of the elements and where animals might get to it. It helps to sta nail the hide to a piece of plywood to keep it flat (only nail it at the edges using small nails). Don’t worry, you’re probably pretty worn out from the hunt/field dress so all you need to do is lay out the hide and salt the heck out of it. You’ll need about 15 pounds for a deer hide and it’s pretty cheap at Walmart. The next step is to salt the hide with non-iodized salt. You might have to experiment with what you have. Usually a flat piece of steel with a semi-sharp edge works alright. You can use a big knife but make sure it’s not too sharp. It helps to have a log to lay it over while you work the flesh off. ![]() This means getting all of the meat/fat off of it without scraping holes in it or exposing hair. The first thing you want to do is flesh the hide. So, we’re gonna assume that you have skinned out your kill without destroying it. If you know how to skin pretty well, which most hunters do, why not try tanning? Flesh out the skin I’ve always adhered to this philosophy and it makes me feel better about taking a life. I was taught early on to use as much of the animal that I killed as humanly possible. Tanning is not as hard as you might think, and it’s actually quite rewarding. If you are one of the lucky hunters that got a nice animal this season and you’ve always wondered what it would be like to have a hide to display then don’t fret.
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